Montemor-o-Velho Castle

Montemor-o-Velho Castle

A great wall above the rice fields

Rising above the flat green valley of the river Mondego, near the city of Coimbra, the long white walls of Montemor-o-Velho Castle stretch along their hilltop like a stone ship sailing above a sea of rice fields. It is one of the biggest castles in all of Portugal, and from a distance its battlements seem to go on and on. Within the walls, surrounded by gardens, stands a graceful old church, while the keep rises proudly at one end.

A prize in the Reconquest

This hill has guarded the river Mondego since ancient times, and the castle played an important part in the long struggle known as the Reconquest, when Christian kingdoms slowly took back lands from the Moors. The fortress changed hands several times in fierce fighting, captured by Christian armies and then retaken by Muslim ones before finally becoming firmly Portuguese.

Because it controlled the approaches to the great city of Coimbra — which was for a time the capital of Portugal — Montemor-o-Velho was considered one of the most important strongholds in the kingdom. Holding this castle could mean holding the heart of the country.

Kings, knights and a famous tragedy

Over the centuries kings strengthened and enlarged the castle, giving it the vast ring of walls we see today. The fortress is also linked to one of the most famous and sorrowful tales in Portuguese history: the story of Inês de Castro. According to tradition, it was at Montemor-o-Velho that King Afonso IV met with his advisers and made the fateful decision concerning Inês, the beloved of his son Prince Pedro — a tragic love story that Portuguese poets and writers have retold for centuries.

A castle of the Mondego

The land around the castle is famous for its rice, grown in the wet fields of the Mondego valley, and for a special local sponge cake. The river itself, which once carried boats and trade past the castle walls, is today used for rowing and canoeing, with a modern sports centre nearby — so the old fortress still watches over busy waters, just as it always has.

Restored and protected

As the centuries passed, the castle lost its military importance and parts of it fell into ruin. In modern times it has been restored and protected as a national monument, its long walls repaired and its grounds opened to visitors as a peaceful park with sweeping views.

Visiting today

Visitors can walk almost the entire length of Montemor-o-Velho's enormous battlements, climb the keep, and visit the lovely church within the walls. From the ramparts the view opens over the bright green rice fields, the winding river and the gentle hills beyond. Standing on those long white walls, it is easy to understand why kings fought so hard to hold this mighty fortress above the Mondego.