Château de Chambord

Château de Chambord

A palace in the forest

Deep in a great walled forest in the Loire valley of France stands the most astonishing château of them all: Chambord. From a distance, its roofline looks like a whole town floating in the air — a wild forest of towers, turrets, domes and hundreds of chimneys, all crowded together against the sky. With more than 400 rooms, it is by far the largest of the famous Loire châteaux, and one of the most extraordinary buildings of the Renaissance.

The dream of a young king

Chambord was the dream of King Francis I, who came to the throne of France in 1515 as a young, ambitious ruler who loved art, learning and hunting. In 1519 he began building Chambord, not as a fortress to defend his kingdom but as a magnificent lodge where he could hunt deer and wild boar in the surrounding forest — and, just as importantly, dazzle the world with his power and taste.

Although it has the towers and moat of a medieval castle, Chambord was really a palace for pleasure and show. The king actually spent very little time there, but he poured vast resources into making it the wonder of his age.

The magical staircase

At the very heart of Chambord is its most famous feature: a great double-helix staircase. Two separate spiral stairs wind around the same central column, climbing up through the building — so two people can go up and down at the same time and see each other through the openings, but never meet on the steps. Children especially love trying it out.

Many people believe the brilliant idea behind this staircase came from Leonardo da Vinci, the great Italian artist and inventor, who spent his last years living nearby as a guest of King Francis I. Whether or not Leonardo designed it himself, the staircase shows the playful genius of the Renaissance.

A roof like a town

Climbing to the top of the staircase brings visitors out onto the great rooftop terraces, and this is one of the most magical parts of Chambord. Up here, among the chimneys and turrets, the royal court would gather to watch the start and finish of the hunt, to enjoy the view over the forest, and to see and be seen. Walking among the carved stone towers feels like wandering the streets of a little stone town in the sky.

Wars, neglect and rescue

Over the centuries Chambord had many owners and went through long periods of neglect, standing cold and empty in its forest. During the Second World War, precious treasures from the museums of Paris — including famous paintings — were hidden at Chambord for safekeeping. Afterwards the French state took care of the château, restoring it and opening it to the public.

Visiting today

Today visitors can explore Chambord's grand halls, climb the famous double staircase, and walk the rooftop terraces among the towers and chimneys. The vast forest park around it, still surrounded by a long wall, is home to deer and wild boar, just as in the king's day. Enormous, fantastical and unforgettable, Château de Chambord is the crowning jewel of the Loire and one of the great wonders of France.