Château de Castelnaud

Château de Castelnaud

A fortress above the river

In the beautiful Dordogne valley of south-western France, where the river winds between green hills and golden cliffs, the stern fortress of Castelnaud crowns a rocky height. From its walls there is a magnificent view over the valley — and, most importantly, over its great rival castle of Beynac, which glares back from a cliff on the opposite side of the river. For centuries these two fortresses faced each other like enemies across a battlefield.

Born in war

Castelnaud was first built as a fortified castle in the 12th century. Almost from the beginning it was caught up in conflict. During the Albigensian Crusade in the early 1200s — a war against people the Church considered heretics — the famous and feared crusader Simon de Montfort captured the castle. It would change hands by force many more times in the centuries to come.

The castle's most dramatic age came during the Hundred Years' War, the long and bitter struggle between the kings of England and France that dragged on for more than a hundred years. The Dordogne valley lay right on the frontier between the two sides, and castles like Castelnaud were vital prizes.

The English castle

For much of the Hundred Years' War, Castelnaud was held by lords loyal to the king of England, while its great rival Beynac, just across the river, was held for the king of France. The two castles glowered at each other across the water, their soldiers raiding and skirmishing in the lands between. Castelnaud was besieged and captured several times as the fortunes of war swung back and forth.

To defend itself in this age of growing gunpowder weapons, the castle was strengthened with thick walls and an artillery tower built to mount cannon — turning the medieval fortress into a stronghold for a new kind of warfare.

A museum of medieval war

After the wars ended and peaceful times returned, Castelnaud lost its importance and slowly fell into ruin. But in the 20th century it was rescued and restored, and given a brilliant new purpose: it became a museum of medieval warfare.

Today the castle is filled with armour, swords, crossbows and other weapons, and its grounds hold full-size working replicas of terrifying medieval siege engines — including a giant trebuchet, a kind of catapult that could hurl heavy stones at enemy walls. On special days, visitors can watch these mighty machines in action, just as soldiers once did during real sieges.

A valley of castles

Castelnaud sits in one of the most castle-rich corners of all France. From its battlements you can see not only Beynac but other fortresses dotting the valley, a reminder of how fiercely this land was fought over in the Middle Ages.

Visiting today

Visitors who climb to Castelnaud can explore its towers, walls and artillery platforms, examine the weapons in the museum, and look out over one of the loveliest views in France — the winding Dordogne, the cliffs, and the rival castle of Beynac on the far side. With its working siege engines and its tale of English knights and French foes, Castelnaud brings the drama of medieval war thrillingly to life.